007: never buy the dupe, especially on purpose
Over the years I have nurtured my love and respect for fashion. I have gained valuable insight on what it takes to find inspiration and turn it into an idea, then take that idea and conceptualize it, then go through layers of trial and error before you execute and now have a tangible product or amazing concept that you can share with the world. This actually reaches far beyond the realm of fashion. It does not matter if you are an engineer, architect, chef, or beginner graphic designer... the process applies. Through extensive studying of fashion houses, the design process, and my own peers that design garments, I have gained an even more profound respect for original thinkers and creatives. I have experience running my own businesses (including retail), and being bitten off of in the worst way, so trust me on this topic. I already have a strong opinion, and that opinion is that I absolutely with every fiber of every cell of my body DESPISE a dupe. However, I want to take a deeper, more intensive dive into this topic with the hopes of permeating the thick and stubborn frontal lobes of the dupe warriors because something has got to give!
To begin with, I would just like to state that knowingly buying dupes is an illness. It's terrible and unethical. In the case of small brands still in the process of establishing their names and foundations, wearing copies of their ideas is precisely lame. New and growing entrepreneurs typically use their own money to invest into whatever it is that they are doing. Even in the case of having an investor foot the bill on your ideas, you have to make that money back. If we're just being real, I understand deeply that most of you dupe-devotees are going for the fakes because the prices are lower, yet this is exactly where we disconnect. It may be because you don't understand or care to know who is making your clothes, the thought put into the designs you love so much, or the mental fortitude it takes to start something and see it through. On the opposite end of this spectrum, I have the upmost respect for anyone putting their mind towards anything creative and original. I believe that when goods are made with quality and integrity as the foundation, the price should be whatever it is set at because that is a characteristic of the product, and the product is the makers' to craft in every aspect, from design to price point. Therefore, if I want something I will either pay the price for it immediately or just keep wanting it until I have it.
Not much changes as we shift the conversation to bigger, more established designer brands. If you don't think an item is worth the price then why do you buy the fake? It's paradoxical. That's one to think about.
I want to reference one very vivid instance of swagger jacking that should be easy to wrap your minds around because it includes a company that is typically the common denominator in the instance of a dupe! That company is SheeeeInnnnn (allegedly! because while they have a hard time taking accountability for stealing ideas, they don't play about their own name! that is so ironic it actually makes my stomach hurt.) One of my favorite shoe designs a couple years ago was the Morso heel by GCDS designer Giuliano Calza. The shoe was debuted in the GCDS FW22 collection titled "Dracula." One of the first things I noticed about this shoe was the intricate detail, and I thought about how much must have gone into getting such a design put into production with quality materials, made in Italy. When released, the shoe was set at a price point of around $1000. Within a matter of weeks, ShEiN had already released a similar shoe... a dupe, for a whopping $25-30. SheIn has the ability to put dupes into mass production because of their use of large warehouses, consistently high volume of human labor, and sponsorships with micro and macro influencers across all platforms, making their products quickly and easily accessible to the public before brands like GCDS are able to complete their campaigns and reach new consumers authentically. When Calza caught wind of the Shein ordeal, he released a statement to Footwear News.
“These shoes are extremely expensive to produce in Italy, and people can’t see that a company like mine doesn’t make the volumes of a giant that sells it for 25.40 euros and spends million[s] on marketing,” Calza admitted. “If we don’t act collectively and legally to regulate importation, or ban this website, made in Italy will disappear... people don’t see how difficult it is to develop new colours, new materials and new shapes for such a specific shoe for a ‘medium’ sized brand like mine that offers a collection of not only accessories,” Calza continued. “People think that this doesn’t affect the business, but it does in so many ways. Even if [Shein] removes this shoe, they will still sell it on other channels or even worse trash them somewhere on the planet, which is already frying.”
However, the issue isn't confined to stolen designs; it permeates the retail landscape, altering the consumer experience. Retailers are cracking down, and rightfully so. There are often instances in which consumers will buy an exact replica of a shoe, bag, or other retail item that passes for the real deal and return the item, either for money or another size in the authentic item. In this case the retailer is now stuck with a fake or worse... they sell it to another consumer that came to buy an authentic piece. Everyone besides the culprit loses. Be mindful that there are countless ways in which fakes are altering the retail experience, even online. Some brands are considering discontinuing the availability of certain pieces online. I completely understand, and wish that we all did so that one of the girls' favorite pastimes (online shopping) can remain a fun and painless pastime.
Ultimately, there are so many more reasons why I feel it is not only up to the designers and retailers to have integrity, but also consumers during the buying process. I feel as though the better we treat the fashion industry, the better it will serve us. An important lesson is to be remembered as well: what's cooler than the illusion of status is a sense of personal style and wearing what makes you feel good, label and price point aside.
In conclusion, the battle against dupes transcends the fashion industry, echoing across various creative fields. Whether it's the meticulous journey of the baby entrepreneur or the struggles of established designers, the impact of intellectual theft resonates deeply with many creatives. The story of SheIn and the replication of Giuliano Calza's Morso heel serves as a poignant reminder of the challenges faced by authentic creators in a market driven by mass production and price-driven choices. As consumers, it's imperative to recognize the power we possess in shaping the narrative of the fashion industry. By embracing authenticity and respecting the creative process, we contribute to a healthier and more vibrant fashion WORLD. Ultimately, the lesson is clear: beyond the allure of status and labels, true style lies in celebrating individuality, originality, and the journeys behind the garments we choose to wear.
xoxo, vc <3
mar. 09. 24.
