017: Alessandro's Valentino is not Alessandro's Gucci.
OG post date: jun.20.24So yesterday, Alessandro Michele took us by surprise and debuted his breakout collection at Valentino with a look book composed of 189 beautiful photos and about 170 unique looks. I was so excited when it was announced that he would be taking his talents to the house of Valentino back in March (It's on the VC approved list). I was excited to see the merging of Valentino's roots with Alessandro's specialties. I am happy that I looked at the collection before going to the internet and seeing what people had to say about it because, first of all, I am like... a hyper optimist, and secondly, I immediately thought when looking through the lookbook debut, "Alessandro has outdone himself." I meant that in the sense that he knows what he is good at. He is like an detail lord. His collections always have a touch of elegant maximalism without crossing the line of being gimmicky.
However, many internet users did not take well to the collection because they felt as though it was too Gucci and not true to Valentino and its roots. Not only do I think the complete opposite happened, but I also feel as though the similarities people are finding have everything to do with the fact that Alessandro has his own style that he does and SHOULD carry with him everywhere he goes. I feel that as long as he is able to harmoniously translate his own style while staying true to house codes and the vision of the house founders, he is doing his job. I do believe that this is what happened at Valentino yesterday.
COLLEZIONE BIANCA
One of the standout pieces in Michele's debut collection is an updated version of a jacket from Valentino's iconic 1968 Collezione Bianca. The original collection, known for its all-white ensembles, was pivotal in establishing Valentino Garavani's reputation on the international stage. Michele's reinterpretation maintains the clean lines and sophisticated tailoring of the original, adding contemporary elements that resonate with today's fashion sensibilities. Along with the jacket, the collection features monochromatic looks, a staple in Valentino's early collections. Michele’s modern take on these looks ties back to Valentino’s minimalist yet luxurious aesthetic, proving that Michele can honor the brand's heritage while bringing in his vision.
VALENTINO RED
Michele's collection also prominently features Valentino Red, a color that has become synonymous with the brand since its early days. The inclusion of this vibrant hue is not a mere coincidence; it is a deliberate reference to Valentino Garavani's legacy. By incorporating this signature color, Michele bridges the past and the present, showcasing his understanding and appreciation of the brand's identity.
VALENTINO V
The heavy use of the Valentino V in this collection is another clear nod to the brand’s history. First introduced in the 1968 Collezione Bianca, the V logo has become an iconic symbol of the house. Michele's prominent use of this logo in his designs demonstrates his dedication to Valentino's heritage while infusing his personal touch.
DRAPED FABRICS, CAPES n SCARVES
Capes and draped silhouettes, reminiscent of Valentino's designs from the 1960s and 1970s, made a significant appearance in Michele's collection. These pieces evoke the elegance and drama that Valentino Garavani was celebrated for, showing Michele's ability to draw inspiration from the brand's archives while infusing his unique touch. Additionally, the use of big scarves in the collection is another ode to the original Valentino vibes, adding a sense of grandeur and sophistication.
ATTENTION 2 DETAIL
Valentino has always been known for its luxurious and meticulously crafted garments. Michele continues this tradition with pieces that feature intricate embroidery and detailed craftsmanship. These elements reflect the brand's commitment to quality and elegance, further cementing the connection between Michele's designs and Valentino's storied past.
In conclusion, Alessandro Michele's debut collection for Valentino is a testament to his ability to respect the brand's history while infusing his distinctive style. I urge everyone to dive deeper and go see the collection for yourself. The references to Valentino's archival pieces and the inclusion of signature elements like the Valentino Red, the iconic V logo, and intricate craftsmanship showcase Michele's commitment to honoring the house's legacy. Despite the initial criticism, it's evident that Michele has thoughtfully blended his unique design sensibilities with Valentino's iconic fashion heritage. As he continues to evolve in his role, I'm excited to see how he will further merge his creative vision with Valentino's timeless elegance.
xoxo, VC
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